The second stop of my US roadtrip was Los Angeles and its surroundings. The last time I was in LA was a year and a half ago. I went there with Puma, with whom I collaborated (check out the article from there! It was one of the coolest experiences ever).
This was my fourth time in LA, so I didn’t have much of sightseeing left to do. I spent most of my free time surfing, so this article will focus on my struggles with the damned board.
So. It all started in Portugal six, seven years ago. That was my first time with the surf. I’ve always been pretty good with all kinds of sports, but in this case, it didn’t really go as planned. Even though the waves were super small, I stood up three times. I told myself that no one picks surfing up on their first day anyways.
After three years, I came across surfing in Australia again. But the waves were about five meters high and I rented a short board because I had no idea what the difference was. Long story short, I almost drowned at Bondi Beach because I got into some weird currents, that kept me underwater long enough to throw the board away and give it up.
Then there was a short surf lesson two years ago in Lofoten, then last year on Manhattan Beach in LA and this year it was the fifth time. I believed that my fifth attempt must be finally successful. I already knew I had to rent a long board instead of the short one, all the theory was still in my mind and the waves and the weather were perfect. I really thought I could finally learn it properly.
But it didn’t work for the fifth time either. I stood up about five times in six hours and it was more of luck than skills. After six hours I dragged myself out of water, totally exhausted from the constant paddling and told myself that surfing is probably not for me. It’s a never ending story and I still don’t understand how all the Cali guys do it in such an elegant way. It always looks like it’s super easy!!
So anyways, I hope I’m not alone in this. I hope there is no one in the world who would stand up the first time trying. I hope I’m not alone when I feel like a fat whale just before a heart attack when I try to stand up.
What about you guys? Can you surf? Are you rocking it or struggling like me? :))